The tips given on this page are a collection of offerings from various club members who have found them to be useful
|Covering wings. Sometimes when covering parts of a wing with film, 3 hands are required. One to hold the wing, one to stretch the film and one to hold the heat iron. As an alternative, if the wing has a flat underside, place on the bench then fill some supermarket carrier bags with sand and place enough sand bags on the top of the one half of the wing to hold it steady while you pull the film into position and iron it onto the other half. For symmetrical wings, place some sand filled bags on the bench first to support the wing curvature.|
|Engine Cowl Mounting. Glue softwood or balsa blocks in the proper locations desired for mounting your cowl. Drill an appropriately sized hole through the cowl and into the blocks. Drill out the blocks to accept a small Rawl plug. Press this into the hole and wick thin CA around it. You now have a very vibration-proof mounting method that will undoubtedly outlast your model.|
Replacing wing ribs. It is sometimes difficult to replace broken wing ribs and obtain the correct profile to match the surrounding ribs or surface exactly. This is a method to make accurate replacements. Roughly cut the replacement(s) to shape and glue into position. Take a piece of softwood (not balsa) about 1/2" x 1" and cut it to a length which will overlap the next good ribs either side of the damaged ribs by about 1" either side. Measure the thickness of the rib capping to be fitted to the final profile. Take a piece of sand paper and a piece of balsa whose thickness when added together is the same as this thickness and glue to the softwood. The length of the sand paper and packer should cover the distance across the new rib(s) plus about 1" either side. Now bridge the two outer good ribs and the replacement ribs and start to sand across the replacement ribs. When the excess material has been removed from the new ribs and the softwood rubs against the surrounding rib cappings, you should have new ribs which are a capping thickness below the rest. Add cappings and the wing surface should match perfectly.
|Tank pipes. It is sometimes a bit awkward to feed the 3 pipes from your tank trough the firewall hole when connected to a tank. To make it easy, take 3 spare lengths of fuel tube and 3 pieces of brass or plastic tube about an inch long with an O/D the size of the fuel tube bore. Slide the pieces of brass/plastic tube into one end of each of the spare lengths for about 1/2 inch. Push these 3 spare lengths through from the engine side of the firewall hole and well into the fuselage where you can now connect on to the 3 tank pipes. Now carefully pull the 3 spare tubes back out feeding tank into position at the same time. With the tank pipes now fully through the firewall, remove the temporary pipes.|
|Cutting Film. When cutting sheets of covering film, nothing beats glass for a surface to cut on, it will not blunt the blade or slow it down when cutting. You can also use low heat to make it stick to the glass for critical shapes. An off cut of safety glass from a glass supplier is best or even an old glass table top. Don't use normal glass.|
It would be good to build up a comprehesive page of tips so if you have any useful tips yourself and think that they might benefit others, especially novices and younger club members please send to the webmaster for publication